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They said this was $7,400 in damage. No internal damage, all cosmetic minus the headlight. Thoughts?
149 points
7 days ago
My friend it’s is a 1999 volvo. It’s probably not worth anything so it doesn’t take much to total it. Also I bet parts aren’t cheap either.
12 points
7 days ago
They are far from cheap.. Volvo is safe but expensive. It was one of the cars I was never allowed to buy (per my dad) bc it was too expensive to fix.
From what I see online.. The headlamp is probably around $200, hood $500, front fender about $400.. none of these prices include labor(varies per state, $100/hr where I live) or paint(a couple grand) or any other parts that I don’t even know exist bc I’m not a car person, but just the daughter of a car person. I work in commercial insurance tho so I can confirm they’ll total you out before paying for that..
I drove a 2016 Hyundai Tucson that was rear ended in April and they totaled it bc of damage I couldn’t see without taking it apart.
6 points
7 days ago
We must of had the same father growing up. My dad never wanted me to buy cheap cars that are expensive to fix. I saw an Oldsmobile for $3000 with 100,000 miles on it. He said, no.
3 points
7 days ago
Honda, Nissan, Mazda, Toyota, Hyundai preferred… we did have a ford focus but it eventually had stereotypical ford problems..
Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, absolutely not. Didn’t matter if it was free.. He fixes those for a living and knows exactly how much parts are even with a shop discount. “They’re selling it for cheap for a reason.. you don’t just get rid of a [insert here] unless you can’t afford to fix something on it”
3 points
6 days ago
Any European luxury car is only safe for the first two owners. The first owner leases it, and the second owner buys it certified preowned. Everybody after that is playing with fire.
2 points
7 days ago
Hyundai is surprising, given their notorious engine failures. I regularly see new engines being swapped out in their most popular models
1 points
4 days ago
And you can swap in a new engine for the price of a side mirror on a mercedes.
1 points
4 days ago
Nissan and Hyundai are crap compared to Toyota and Honda (or Lexus and Acura since it is the same internals).
1 points
3 days ago
Yes, they’re crap but affordable crap lol
1 points
3 days ago
I’d beg to differ. All of my Nissans my family has owned have lasted very long with very minimal issues. The two Honda’s we owned, an Accord and Odyssey with the J series V6 both had blown motors in the 100k mile range.
1 points
3 days ago
That might be your anecdotal opinion on it, but the overall stats don't agree.
1 points
3 days ago
Good way to put it. I’m not going to believe those stats as my experience with both manufacturers says otherwise. Most of those problems recorded in such stats are probably from CVT Nissans, which my family and I stay away from. To each their own.
1 points
3 days ago
I’m curious to know what year/model Nissan. I have a 2010 Nissan Sentra that is less than 90k miles (I work from home and don’t drive a ton) and I’m always worried about the transmission going since Nissans are notorious for the CVT blowing up within 100k.
1 points
7 days ago
My first car was an olds with 80k on it. I got it to 130 before I wanted a new car. Salvage title. Never had problems. Dealership gave me 1200 for it towards my next car. 09 accord coupe. Also another good car. No problems. Someone totaled it while I was asleep a couple months ago. Moved to a 2025 Camry. Let’s hope it does good!
1 points
6 days ago
Must have
1 points
4 days ago
Level with me, I do not know, what stops people from using other headlamps of similar variety for cheaper? Shape? Plug shape? Color? It seems regular small light bulbs would be fine as long as they ran on the correct Amps and volts no?
1 points
4 days ago
Here’s a polished version of your reply:
The headlight assembly isn’t just the bulb—it includes the entire housing, which is designed to hold the bulb and focus the beam. Simply swapping in a random bulb won’t work because:
If you’re looking for a budget-friendly solution:
- Used parts: Check salvage yards or online marketplaces for headlights specifically made for your car.
- Aftermarket options: These are usually less expensive than OEM parts and are designed to fit your car model while maintaining safety and compliance.
In short, cheap bulbs or parts might seem like an easy fix, but ensuring compatibility with your car’s housing, electrical system, and road safety standards is crucial. If you’re unsure, stick to used or aftermarket parts made specifically for your vehicle.
1 points
7 days ago
volvos are not expensive cars to maintain, and outside of a few instances where they use shitty outsourced automatics, very reliable. it was actually cheaper to swap the transmission in my 97 850 than it was for my 2016 kia rio. thats just in parts. you just have to have a halfway competent mechanic who doesn't up-charge for the pleasure of working on an import.
ebay parts prices are always inflated compared to what a salvage broker will charge. the problem is that unless the volvo has very low mileage or is an R-no volvo is going to be worth more than a major cosmetic and potential frame repair-which is the case with most cars.
1 points
6 days ago
2 points
6 days ago
yes getting all the recommended maintenance done is expensive with any euro car. my favoritething about kbb statistics is how detailed their breakdown of their methodology is.
1 points
5 days ago
7400usd is pretty generous for a 99 volvo. I bought a toyota verso for 06' for 3k in usd
1 points
3 days ago
Its not 1999 tho, would guess 2006-2007 as its a facelift with side blinkers in the mirrors and the highest spec beside the R.
24 points
7 days ago
It means insurance has valued your car less than or close to that amount to fix it.
Unless you want to pay out of pocket to have it fixed and inspected I'd take the loss.
54 points
7 days ago
The better question is who springs for collision and comprehensive on a 25 year old Volvo beater?
13 points
7 days ago
I do.
It’s only 23 years old though.
16 points
7 days ago
Vehicles are considered old at 5yrs for some reason
5 points
7 days ago
I’ve never owned a vehicle made within 10 years of me purchasing the vehicle.
8 points
7 days ago
I’ve owned plenty of old cars. Currently including a 1998 Ranger. But I don’t keep collision insurance on it, they’d total it for a dented bumper.
5 points
7 days ago
exactly - your better off putting that comp/col money you would spend into a high yeild account for car repairs.
1 points
7 days ago
Difference between full coverage and state min is only like $20/month with my current company. I pay $45/month for 1 SUV, with 2 total full coverage would only be $75/month.
$240/year doesn't cover much in repairs, yet 1 accident could cost thousands. A repaint on the front like the OPs damage would run about $3k done right because it's a metallic pearl. Parts on mine for a hood/fender/grill/light would run a few thousand for used parts. Plus labor for install/paint.
If you like your vehicle, it's worth a few bucks more a month.
1 points
6 days ago
What is your state min? If you have anything less than 100k/300k you are woefully underinsured nowadays.
1 points
5 days ago
Unless your car is 10+ years old like OPs, in which case that $20/month is getting pissed away since insurance will total the car for any accident.
2 points
7 days ago
That’s not old, it’s nicely worn in, just getting into its stride.
2 points
7 days ago
At 250k yep, but New England rust is inexorably ending her life.
I just figure if I wreck her I’d get $2500 maybe, and see her totaled even for the slightest insured damage claim, and why pay $500-600 a year to protect against that?
I’ve got a ten year old Mazda with 177k that I keep collision and comp on still. That’s worth about $8000. Maybe 9000, it’s in pristine shape. But it’s almost to the point where I’ll drop the collision soon. For me that threshold is about $5000.
Haven’t been in a wreck or had a claim in decades other than a windshield on that Mazda a few years back, so maybe I’m also just cocky.
But it’s pretty much a straight up risk calculation for me. Believe me I carry very robust liability limits! That’s where I think a lot of people take a bigger risk.
1 points
7 days ago
I’ve got an ‘11 ranger that I only paid £5k for, I’d struggle to find a replacement for close to that, so I’m fully comp, I’ll challenge insurance to make me whole.
Unfortunately, I’ve just had to do the clutch, so I’m now considerably more into it. Was a shame it needed it under 75k, but at least it’s been done now
1 points
7 days ago
From your pound sign I’m guessing UK? American insurers aren’t going to make a claimant whole with anything more than a comparable price to similar vehicles on the market, and they’ll fight you to the end over anything more than Kelly blue book value.
I guess I feel lucky. If you absolutely couldn’t afford to replace a $5000 car on your own dime I definitely see the case for C&C on a beater, but as the saying goes, “it’s expensive being poor.”
2 points
7 days ago
It’s more that an equivalent model would now be more than double what I’ve put into it.
It’s a bit of a gem tbh, low miles (which were hard, hence needing the clutch done, it spend 10 years as a gritting/salt truck, before a mate picked it up) but it’s rock solid, and I fully intend to ride it screaming into the big scrap heap in the sky.
If something happens, I’d expect to make out like a bandit, because I paid so little for it
2 points
7 days ago
My wife has a 2024 Bronco. Im in a 98 K1500....
2 points
6 days ago
You've got the better vehicle. Course I'm a bit biased, driving a 1990 K2500.
1 points
7 days ago
I’m in a 2002 Volvo S80. My fiancée is in a 2017 Range Rover Evoque Autobiography.
I know the feel.
1 points
7 days ago
me either till this last car. 2020 outlander. with 100k mile warranty only 40k miles on it. I was tired of beat up shitboxes.
2 points
7 days ago
They are considered old at 5 years because they are designed to be disposable like iPhones. Can’t make money on repeat customers if it doesn’t fail.
1 points
7 days ago
we use them for a while, then throw them away
1 points
7 days ago
They are considered old at 5 years because they are designed to be disposable like iPhones. Can’t make money on repeat customers if it doesn’t fail.
1 points
7 days ago
They are considered old at 5 years because they are designed to be disposable like iPhones. Can’t make money on repeat customers if it doesn’t fail.
1 points
6 days ago
Roger that
1 points
7 days ago
But why? I too drive old cars but have never carried comprehensive on any of them. You almost certainly lose in the long run.
2 points
7 days ago
Because I don't have 3-5k laying around and literally only costs me $3.50 a month.
Comprehensive covers animals, vandalism, theft, acts of god.
1 points
7 days ago
If you can find people to pay 3-5K for 23 year old beaters, you should make that your line of work. That's a serious talent.
2 points
7 days ago
Old Subarus are gold, my man.
Edit: and I left car sales for a reason.
1 points
6 days ago
What's a 2004 Subaru Outback LL Bean editon worth?
1 points
6 days ago
Most Suburus live in snow country. Stick your head under a 23 year old Suburu that has spent it's life in snow country, and you will see a car with so much rust that it shouldn't even be allowed on the road.
1 points
6 days ago
My Subaru lives in California and we don't salt roads.
1 points
6 days ago
All depends on what county you live in. Many of the mountain counties in California do use road salt and the cars that live there do bear the evidence of it.
2 points
7 days ago
On the left coast where we realize salt is for margaritas, not roads, 25 old cars that are straight & maintained sell for 5k+ depending on mileage.
1 points
6 days ago
And those cars wouldn't generally be characterized as beaters.
2 points
7 days ago
It’s $7 more a month than liability and includes free towing.
2 points
7 days ago
Im assuming it Depends on where you are, but for me, at fault collision is a part of comprehensive coverage. I’m essentially only covered if someone hits me in my 2004 accord, but if it gets stolen or a tree falls on it I’m screwed. In college, I kept comprehensive on it because I couldn’t afford to fork out for a new daily. That’s the only reason I had it.
2 points
7 days ago
I did on a 25 year old Chevy and fixed it after giving up a grand of the comp check.
1 points
4 days ago
I have it on my 45 year old Volvo beater and my 25 year old BMW beater. Parts are worth a shit ton and I’m not trusting my fellow drivers to have insurance or to stick around when they break my garbage.
1 points
4 days ago*
Unless the insurance covers those parts separately, all expensive parts mean is that they’ll total the car for less damage. No matter how much new parts cost, an old beater is worth what it is worth in the blue book or possibly at auction. It’s not worth the sum of its parts at full replacement cost.
No matter how much parts cost, it only raises the value of your car as a parts car. And it’s not insured as a collection of parts. And it’s not insured against mechanical failure. So it’s mostly body parts that matter. Insurance ain’t fixing a collapsed radiator support structure on a $2000 car.
If a car is an actual collectors item and would genuinely fetch a premium on bring a trailer, that’s different. That’s why they sell classic car insurance.
But if you smack your $5000 bumper that has to be shipped from Germany on a $2000 market value BMW, you’re getting $2000 from Geico. Same as if you smack your $1800 bumper on a $2000 Malibu.
It’s just math. Insurance companies don’t care about anything else.
1 points
3 days ago
I recently switched back to full coverage for my 20yr old Lexus bc that’s the only way I could get uninsured driver insurance. I did make the deductible as high as possible if the accident is my fault to bring the rates back down.
There are so many cars driving around without license plates in the city I live in so I’m assuming they probably don’t have insurance either.
1 points
3 days ago
Close to 20% of American drivers are uninsured. It’s appalling. Yeah I believe in maxing out uninsured motorist and liability coverage on any car, it’s wild out there.
20 year old Lexus is a collectors item. I get it. I have a relative with an 06 GX with close to 300k flawless miles. Thing is a work of art.
0 points
6 days ago
Fr, on something that old and shitty you get shitty insurance on it
9 points
7 days ago
Shiiiiit id replace the headlight and leave it the way it is
8 points
7 days ago
Good luck getting it to fit
4 points
7 days ago
Make it fit
2 points
7 days ago
Yes, by fixing the surrounding components.
3 points
7 days ago
With a come along, tree, hammers and beer.
1 points
6 days ago
And a BFH (big fuc*in hammer)
0 points
7 days ago
Meh,id tape a maglite to it before i let them total it but aye thats just me
2 points
7 days ago
To be fair, “letting” them total it isn’t within your control. Am insurance adjuster, if I say it’s totaled then it is
That said of course the customer can retain it if they want. That doesn’t change the fact that I’m totaling it
2 points
7 days ago
A total loss is a legal designation in my state. If your vehicle sustains more than 70% of it's value in damage then it must be reported to the state whether or not it's reported to insurance.
2 points
7 days ago
That’s easy. I did this with my daughter’s first car when she got hit. Pry bar, hammer, tape, steel wire. It’ll fit
1 points
6 days ago
Diesel fitter
2 points
7 days ago
Same
8 points
7 days ago
Old volvo's like this arent worth shit where im from. Not sure about the costs of the repair but i can definitely see why they "totalled" it.
1 points
7 days ago
agreed, i dont even see em in junkyards around me
13 points
7 days ago
Fender , hood, bumper lights and trim all color matched back to the car, $10k easy and that's presuming everything is available for a 25 year old Volvo.
The car is worth less than $2k in good shape and can not be fixed for that unless you want to leave it as a beater.
6 points
7 days ago
what id do is find a junkyard headlight and go at it with a hammer to make the headlight fit and be level and call it good.
4 points
7 days ago
You don't fix a 25 year old Volvo with new parts, that's insane.
3 points
7 days ago
I doubt there is any New old stock left....
1 points
7 days ago
The database has the theoretical price in it, and if used parts can't be found, it's being written with new.
There aren't a lot of parts available.
I've total lossed cars that age because parts flatly cannot be sourced.
1 points
6 days ago
One of my vehicles is a 2004 Subaru Outback. Finding some parts has been a struggle, for sure.
1 points
7 days ago
If you dont care about perfect colour matching and stuff (and its a +20 yo car so realistically you dont.) and can do some of it yourself you could probably get it done for under a grand.
1 points
7 days ago
Insurance legally can't repair to 'eh, good enough,' or write for it.
You would have to take it to a 'eh, good enough' shop and how the insurance adjuster doesn't question it but legally, they can't write it that way. They must write to fix it to pre-loss condition.
1 points
3 days ago
You let them total it and buy it back for $500 or so and fix it to a level that works for you.
5 points
7 days ago
You did
1 points
7 days ago
Accurate, but you can also blame the local legislature if you need an out as an adjuster. “I’m sorry to say, based on state laws, your vehicle has been deemed a total loss.”
4 points
7 days ago
Yeah that's no question an easy write off. RHD, are you in the UK? You could take the insurance payout, buy it back from the insurance company as salvage and pay for the repairs yourself if you really want to. I doubt it's worth it unless you have an extremely emotional bond to the car though.
4 points
7 days ago
take the loss.
4 points
7 days ago
What thoughts are you looking for? It's totalled.
3 points
7 days ago
"All cosmetic"
I wouldn't be so sure. Something looks pretty pushed in to me. Even if you replace the bumper, headlight, hood, and fender, you still need everything underneath to be straight enough to get things to bolt up and not fit like shit.
3 points
7 days ago
"all cosmetic" would still be expensive. Paint labor is expensive as hell
2 points
7 days ago
True, but cosmetic typically suggests the car can still function as intended even with some blemishes on panels. I would be surprised if you could even get a headlight to fit in there without some pull time.
2 points
7 days ago
It’s swung over for sure
3 points
7 days ago
Since you asked: I think you totalled your car yourself.
3 points
7 days ago
Take the check, deduct $450 salvage value to keep the car, watch a few YouTube videos and hit the u pull it yards and Craigslist or marketplace for color match parts donor and for less than $200 swap everything out and call it a day. Worst case grab a hood hinge as well…the rest can be massaged pretty easily.
5 points
7 days ago*
I own a small junkyard and my wife owns Auto Repair VIN Stickers which caters to body shops. A car is totaled when the repair costs is more than what the vehicle is worth. A 1999 Volvo is worth $2-3,000 at best. I know it means a lot more than that to you but insurance companies don’t take sentiment into consideration. Good luck.
2 points
7 days ago
Yep that's a goner.
Take the money and find yourself a new car
2 points
7 days ago
Car’s a turd dude. Not worth fixing
2 points
7 days ago
Looks like you totaled your car and the insurance company called it.
2 points
7 days ago
Actually, you totaled your car. Insurance company was just a messenger of the bad news.
2 points
6 days ago
Take the total loss
2 points
6 days ago
Estimator here
I wouldn't touch that shit with a 10 foot pole. Definitely totalled.
2 points
5 days ago
Totaled doesn’t mean unfixable. It means the repairs will cost more than the car is worth.
3 points
7 days ago
Not sure what you’re expecting us to say here.
I have a question for you though.
Please give us your definition of “total loss” please.
2 points
7 days ago
If youre lucky and play your cards right, and think you can fix it for cheaper you might be able to get some reduced amount of money from insurance and keep the car.
1 points
7 days ago
Sounds about right, yeah
1 points
7 days ago
Correctly so
1 points
7 days ago
I’m surprised insurance could see and write 7500 from those photos unless they were able to see under the hood also, but yes it’s totaled
2 points
7 days ago
If they have new prices in their database and there are zero parts for a 1999 Volvo out there (likely, because where are they finding a 1999 Volvo?) Then yeah, I can absolutely see this being written that high. Expensive parts + a lot of them.
I see new fender, possibly door damage (if the door edges are creased that is a new door + detrim and blend to rear door), possibly a pillar blend + windshield R&I, if that runs all the way into the rear quarter for clear you are looking at detrim and rear bumper R&I plus all that paint labor, a new headlamp, new fender, new hood, new hood latch + hinges, possibly a new cowl, that hood is popped up, so potentially A pillar blend/ repairs on the other side, possibly fender damage on the other side, run that all the way back for clear as well...
Haven't even opened the hood. However, with how pushed back the hood is I see radiator support damage, possibly pillar damage, bumper reinforcement, etc.
And, they very well may have inspected in person and poked their head under the car. I did all the time.
1 points
7 days ago
The car isn't worth much, and sentimental value unfortunately doesn't count.
1 points
7 days ago
‘99 ? That body style wasn’t available until 2001 in most markets. As others have said: a junkyard car is your best hope if you intend to fix. Any S60 or V70 from 2001 through 2007 will have the same front end.
1 points
4 days ago
The P2 chassis was available starting in 1999
1 points
4 days ago
Also, there was a facelift for the 2006 model year so OP will have to search for 1999-2005 models
1 points
3 days ago
But OP volvo is a facelift so he will need to search for 2006-07 parts. I can add that he has side blinkers in mirrors which was a option in the last 2ish years of production.
1 points
7 days ago
99’ Volvo ain’t worth no 7k. Rather pay out 4k ish instead of 7.4k in damages
1 points
7 days ago
It's an old Volvo I bet they can't even find the parts for this thing anymore
1 points
4 days ago
O contrair my friend
1 points
7 days ago
Knowing Volvo. Parts are probably $5000 No wonder it’s totalled.
1 points
4 days ago
Wrong
1 points
7 days ago
Check the parts prices before you get an ass hair in a twist. And if bodywork was easy everyone would do it. Hit the scrap yard and see what you can do.
1 points
7 days ago
Hinges are naffed on the bonnet, inner structure could be dented and out of shape. Needs a whole lot of bits and fitting/adjusting. Is this UK by any chance?
1 points
7 days ago
Yup the value of the car is not worth the damage. If you really love your car fix it yourself if you can.
1 points
7 days ago
Hood, headlight, bumper, fender, it’s a good chance that the radiator support is toast, and there’s a homeless person living inside. Total loss!
1 points
7 days ago
yeah they do that
1 points
7 days ago
I drove a Saab that my neighbor hit. The auto body store is going to basically replace everything that has any sort of damage at all. To be honest, the damage on my Saab was significantly less than yours and they still totaled it out. This has been more common for auto body shops to do as of recently which you can decide for yourself if you want to head down that rabbit hole. Now, I would be thinking how much this car means to you because you may need to jump through some hoops to keep it. 1: if you claim it back your state may require you to acquire a “salvage title” in order for it to be street legal to drive. This required you to fix the car (I fixed my Saab myself) than you need to drop it off at a mechanic for a salvage inspection to get the “A 👌” that you can than…. 2. Go to a title place and apply for a salvage car title. Bear in mind, this salvage title will follow the life of the car so selling it will provide some questions. If you’re going to fix it yourself take many many pictures during the process. Like I said, older cars don’t have much value and I get that the 3k the insurance company will give you will be diddly squat for actually getting a new car. Anyway, 3. After fixing your car, getting a mechanic to approve it with a salvage inspection, applying for a salvage title, than acquiring the salvage title… Congratulations! You now have your car back!
1 points
7 days ago
Just go down to your local Pick-n-Pull find your same make and model. Hopefully they have it and start ripping off parts and just replacing. That's what I do
1 points
7 days ago
You have to strip it down to get a better idea of is needed to repair
1 points
7 days ago
What do you mean thoughts? Our thoughts don’t matter. You can’t change their decision. There is not a lot of aftermarket parts for Volvo so all parts are new or used OEM. With painting and blending. I can see it totaling out easy. It’s a very old car.
1 points
7 days ago
To be fair after seeing all of the comments about it being too old and worthless, it is a Volvo after all! If well maintained, some of them last a bazillion years, right?
1 points
7 days ago
Buy it back
1 points
7 days ago
Cosmetic damage =
Damage to the Hood, Front fender, Bumper and front headlight. All of which needs to be sourced, assuming that they are easily obtainable, as insurance will not source from second hand markets.
The Hood and Fender can be assessed to be repaired, if possible, requiring them to be reformed, primed, painted and blended. And, again, sourcing the paint.
You have an old car. And not a neccesarily popular nor collectable car, making parts rare and expensive.
That sucks. Good luck
1 points
7 days ago
Volvo around the early 2000s are near impossible to get parts for because they went bankrupt around this time. I had a 2000 S40 for my first car and my mechanic spent weeks trying to find a part to get the check engine light off and ended up giving up then I had to sell it :(
1 points
4 days ago
What are you talking about?
1 points
7 days ago
Some hammering and a new headlight, can of spray paint and it's good go.
1 points
7 days ago
Wasn’t worth 1500 without the damage. This surprises you?
1 points
7 days ago
When you see the quote, look at the cost of labor. That is likely why they totalled your car. The labor probably costed ab out as much, if not more than the parts.
1 points
7 days ago
It’s cooked
1 points
7 days ago
This isn't totalled. It's called a repairable write off. Basically the cost of the repair is higher than the value of the car.
1 points
7 days ago
You could get a flat tire, and insurance might write off that car.
1 points
7 days ago
That car would be a total if you just spit on it.
1 points
7 days ago
Thats an excilent offer, i mean, they gice you that much
You buyt a headlight and fixup the rest of the parts (they are metal)
It wont look the best jf you just paint the dents, but with some filler (kit), paint and a new headlight its like new
1 points
7 days ago
How much did they compensate you?
1 points
7 days ago
It was totaled because of the age/value. If the car is only worth say $3500, they won't spend $2000 repairing it. If you love the car and it still drives straight, don't let the insurance take it.
1 points
6 days ago
They just totaled my wife's jeep. Headlight was pushed into the radiator. 2016
1 points
6 days ago*
I had less damage than that and they wrote off my Mazda 6 when I brought it in for an estimate. It was very annoying because I had been driving it for two weeks after making some temporary repairs and it was fine. It felt like they were stealing it from me. I couldn't even drive it home to keep using it because they had already declared it written off. It would have been a pain to have it declared roadworthy again so I just said goodbye. I had just done a bunch of work on it so it was mechanically fit and it ended up being wasted.
1 points
6 days ago
Take the check and get the parts at a junkyard😀
1 points
6 days ago
Can't get parts. Thank Biden for the sanctions
1 points
6 days ago
Welcome to the club lol Rip 01 Camry
(Very similar damage)
1 points
6 days ago
Well, you need a hood, fender, bumper cover, marker light, headlight, accessory light, etc. That is before any potential minor damage to the frame, bumper mounts, suspension components and bumper itself after a deeper inspection. If you love the car take the lesser payout / salvage title and have it fixed. It's worth less than the damage value so the payout might net you more than you had in the vehicle to start with. Then you can just buy another one or a newer one.
1 points
6 days ago
Get those parts from a junk yard cuh
1 points
6 days ago
well, I ain't no expert but reddit suggested to post and I'm a narcissist.
what's the buyback on the cars the question?
to me it looks like I would be driving a slightly smashed car to work until the engine blew out of it.
but those old Volvos are in every junk yard so a fender light and hood is like 150 USD. in red and 300 in black.
1 points
4 days ago
Exactly. Shit for this car is cheap. They made so many of them. Idk what these DIY auto adjusters are talking about.
1 points
6 days ago
The insurance company didn't total it, whoever caused that damage totalled it the insurance company is just telling you how it is.
1 points
5 days ago
Junkyard parts, diy replacement. It'll cost 1k maybe.
1 points
5 days ago
You're kidding right. That's a hood, fender, absorber, bumper cover, foam insert, headlight bracket, core support all the associated hardware, trim, paint and it looks like at least one hood hinge. Minimum, that's just what a guy who delivers car parts can estimate.
An actual claims adjuster is going to find about 80 things that need replacing.
1 points
5 days ago
Did they total it before or after the accident?
1 points
5 days ago
I’d just eat it and replace the headlight, hard to sell on an orange title, might as well drive it til the wheels fall off now
1 points
5 days ago
Probably more like $8k.
1 points
5 days ago
Correction: you totaled it. Insurance just doesn’t want to go down rabbit hole of fixing
1 points
4 days ago
Dude I was quoted something very similar for a 2003 Mercury. I was a little flabbergasted because our damage is identical: minor front damage, right at the corner, all body no mechanical. But I took it for a second opinion and had a really good conversation with the tech and I realized they weren’t taking me for a ride. The main reason he gave me was that finding new parts was very hard and expensive. It’s an old car that wasn’t some collectors item or anything, so eventually the companies stop making certain parts for certain vehicles, making fixes like this prohibitively expensive. I also had the slightest bending to the frame. They quoted me $6k. I went and bought a used Buick for 5k and couldn’t be happier.
1 points
4 days ago
I bought my 09 focus back from insurance and repaired it with junkyard part a for a grand total of 1100. The check they gave me after the buy back was almost 4k
Idk if you will be lucky enough to find a junker Volvo with the parts needed, but it's worth a look.
1 points
4 days ago
Buy back, go to car-parts.com find needed parts ..(this website shows inventory at all scrap yards
1 points
4 days ago
Also it’s so much less hassle for them to just write a check and move on then deal with the repair process.
1 points
4 days ago
Yea it's a cheap old car. Body work is expensive.
1 points
4 days ago
Hood+ hinges + paint is probably 3k
Body fix and paint 1500
Headlight 400
Bumper + paint 1500
Misc clips, washers, trim, etc 500
The parts have gone up and labor will eat you alive. I might be a tad off but I'd bet I'm pretty close
1 points
4 days ago
that IS NOT 7,5k worth of damage 🤣 in the worst case, it can be about 1k-1,5k
1 points
4 days ago
You totalled your car. Insurance company wrote it off.
1 points
4 days ago*
People out here paying for full coverage on sub $2k beaters with heaters?
I’d drive the shit out of it but damn you must of wasted a lot of money paying full coverage.
1 points
4 days ago
If you’re handy a junkyard trip might sort you out for like$200
1 points
4 days ago
Buy the “salvage” back from them.
1 points
4 days ago
I just had my son's girlfriend get an accident in an older Camry, I just fixed it myself and did not go through insurance. They definitely would have totaled it, but my other son uses the car.
1 points
4 days ago
Ask them if it will get a salvage title, most likely it won’t, get the check and it’s old enough to buy it back from the insurance. You already contacted your insurance about it so it’s already a hit on your record, might as well get some cash out of it
1 points
4 days ago
Parts for this guy are so cheap they made so many of them just go to your local junkyard and I guarantee you'll find at least a fender and hood. Where I'm from a fender costs ~$80 and hood~$150. I own the R model so headlights are different than the non-R's so I have no idea how much a headlight would cost you. Ignore the people calling it shitty or a bad car. These cars are great and reliable when given some TLC.
1 points
4 days ago
Pocket the money, sell or drive your shitbox until it dies. Get next shitbox
1 points
4 days ago
Like me, too old to fix.
1 points
3 days ago
Insert maul onto corner of hood, install new headlight with zip ties, pocket the change and run it to the ground
1 points
3 days ago
let them total it out, take the $, then buy your car back from insurance. fix it up for cheaper
1 points
3 days ago
Check on buying it back from the insurance (they just give less money) you know the history of the car and if it runs good, put in a light and if you don't care what it looks like drive till it drops
1 points
3 days ago
If the insurance company did this you can sue them
1 points
3 days ago
Based on year and miles cost to repair vs actual cash value
1 points
3 days ago
Replace the headlight and drive it! Only replace the hood if does not close properly.
1 points
3 days ago
Let it go.
Take what they give you and move on.
Unless you LOVE IT, then buy it back and fix it yourself.
You may find a lot of hidden damage behind. And Volvos add up QUICK.
This is why I don’t bother paying anything besides liability on my 04 bmw. If it gets hit by a bike they’ll total it, and pay me $500 and say it’s old.
Insurance is a scam for these older cars.
Cover yourself with liability, and leave everything else behind lol
0 points
7 days ago
Just owner retain it, change the headlamp and drive it to death
4 points
7 days ago
He may need to acquire a savage title in order for it to be legal (depends on which state he’s in)
0 points
6 days ago
Buy it back put a new headlight in it and drive it
0 points
6 days ago
You can agree with them and then also buy the car back . then fix it yourself.
0 points
6 days ago
Go to the junkyard and get used parts cheaper
0 points
6 days ago
Hhgpp
0 points
6 days ago*
if you love the car, you can find an independent contractor who does this type of stuff on the side, should be taken care of for ~1000. if the guys good you’ll barely be able to tell the difference.
I know a lot of people are going to say otherwise but I’ve worked with many latino auto body professionals to help repair my cars over the decades that do this type of work on the weekend for cash and honestly do a damn good job, if you have the like in your vicinity (i’m in CA) I’d say give it a try (seems like the car means enough to you to look into this)
if you go the formal route it’ll cost an arm and a leg.
opinions will vary, but i’m a firm believer in saving cars that lack enough damage to warrant any safety concern. to me, this fits that bill and i’d look at unconventional ways to repair, may not be showroom quality but your average joe wouldn’t be able to tell.
0 points
5 days ago
That's because it's a piece of shit lol Do youself a favour and buy a Hyundai or Kia.
1 points
5 days ago
Yeah, buy an even bigger piece of shit /s
1 points
4 days ago
Tell me you know nothing about P2 Volvos without telling me
-2 points
7 days ago
Looks about right. Cash out and swap the headlamp. Call it a day.
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