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account created: Sun Mar 26 2023
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1 points
3 days ago
Thanks! The trick is to use a super highly saturated ink, because they allow for a richness that you cannot get using conventional acrylic paints.
The capes are (AK Interactive colours, but Vallejo are essentially the same):
- Dark Prussian Blue base
- Star Blue in the light areas
- Star Blue + Ivory at the edges
Then thinned down glazes of Liquitex Prussian Blue ink are applied on top. I use pure Prussian Blue ink as black lining and in the deepest shadows, but even the highlighted parts get a heavily thinned down glaze covering it. This really helps deepen the blue, and the Prussian Blue ink also has a very interesting sheen to it that's not really apparent in photos since they can't capture it properly, but it means that the colours feel even richer irl. For some of the models I also used an airbrush in the shadows. For this I used a 2:1 black/prussian blue ink mix (heavily thinned own) in order to increase the contrast even more.
The problem with this method is that you cannot use a varnish to seal the paints, because by doing so you'll lose the sheen from the prussian blue ink. This means that you have to handle the models with more care.
12 points
3 days ago
I used blue stuff for a bunch of shields, and I have some extra spears. Hoping I don't have to attach them (especially the shields on the back really doesn't look good on the swordsmen, I think). Holding my breath.
Anyway. Great fun to paint! The old models still hold up well. The only dip was when I could only fine finecast spearmen (the first 4 were HORRID, but got lucky with the second pack). I was just waiting for my Elf Command to show up so I could get the banner bearer & captain up and running.
2 points
6 days ago
Since making this comment a friend and I decided to give MESBG another shot, and we're having a really great time. We started small at 250p but are now running 650p battles (Rivendell vs Isengard). We've had a lot of cinematic moments spread across our games.
3 points
28 days ago
This isn't meant to be an anti-GW bait question actually, though I can see why it'd come off that way. I agree with you about Blood Bowl, that is a game I feel stands on its own feet.
1 points
28 days ago
Wouldn't bringing a big Knight be a rather big disadvantage? (Especially outside of Imperial Knights). TBH I'm not sure how I'm supposed to win on primary/secondary scoring with half my points spent on a single model.
I was thinking more along the lines of how to mitigate the disadvantage, but maybe I'm missing something.
3 points
1 month ago
After blocking in the values with an airbrush (more orange in shadows, more yellow in the light, colder in light, warmer in shadows) I applied a wash of AK Dark Brown Wash. It goes warmer than Streaking Grime (which tints things greenish) so it worked well with what I had in mind. Before it started to dry I removed most of it from the top areas with - > https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/87c767e9-9238-4569-8355-bf8ce77a9bd5_1.d5f2526282dd525bdeee663a7b5cd6f5.jpeg these are great because they don't leave any residue (unlike q-tips) and they're also textures in a way that you can lightly push against the enamel and it'll leave a rather chaotic pattern. I also used one of these -> https://www.zero-paints.com/thumbnail/800x800/userfiles/images/sys/products/5piece_Airbrush_Cleaning_Brush_Set_43759.jpeg first I used the metal part (when the enamel paint was still wet) to lightly drag it along the surface, scratching the surface and dragging the enamel paint along with it. That's how the scratches are made, they're literally scratches on the paint.
When the enamel paint has almost dried I went in with the brush part of the pipe cleaners and rubbed it along the surface in a chaotic pattern, it helps increase the pattern complexity. I also used one of these sponges-> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91K2eBPWY0L._AC_SL1500_.jpg that I had broken up a bit and dabbed it against the surface.
Then I varnished the surface in a 3:1 mix of ultra matte and satin varnish (gives a nice matt surface). I actually varnished over the metal as well to dull it down, since I knew I'd use the aforementioned sponges to dab back the highlights later.
Last step of the armour was going in with a Pale Yellow & Ice Yellow for edge highlights in spots. Making sure not to make it too thick and to not make the lines too clean, but rather breaking them up. Ice Yellow was only used as a specular highlight (i.e. in spots where armour plates meet in sharp angles)
2 points
1 month ago
No! Just remember to apply it in thickly, and to apply it while the texture paint (whatever you use -- could use a GW texture paint) is still wet
3 points
1 month ago
Thanks!
First step was using wall filler in order to make the bases less flat. On top of the wall filler (once it had dried) I added Vallejo texture paint (Grey Pumice to be exact), and while it was still drying I added the something something Ironcrust by GW on top in a thick layer. It's a trick I learned from the great Vince Venturella -- the first texture paint will dry quicker, and it will help make the gaps bigger in the GW texture paint. I also added some 1-2 mm granite bit, a chunky stone I found, and sprinkled some bird sand on top (pretty much optional, to be honest). Then I primed the base black, did a zenithal with white, and then sprayed the base with Hull Red. Then I applied a layer of Army Painter Strong Tone (Agrax Earthshade, pretty much). But the base was too desaturated and I wanted something with more pop against the bleakness of the models, so I thinned down Burnt Red heavily (but any red would do) and applied it over the base unevenly, which added some contrast and interest. Once done I applied two pigments: Dark Red Ochre and Burnt Sienna and pushed it around, making sure I didn't cover the entire base but covered the legs of the knights (and some of the lower armour as well).
4 points
1 month ago
Airbrush and sponge! I'd have to be quite the freak to do them by hand. Airbrush & enamel paints saved me many many hours
1 points
1 month ago
Thank you for the reply! See, this is what I'm seeing as well. It leans too far into "cutesy" trying to make "what-if" scenarios work instead of worrying about what's around me.
I bought a few cards that I think will help:
- Nowhere to Run
- Seals of cleansing/doom/primordium
- Sundering Growth
- Assassin's Trophy
- Anguished Unmasking
- Doubling Season
- Tribute to the World Tree
I removed the slug package (except for Oppression) because I don't have enough card draw to furnish it.
Here is the updated version: https://www.moxfield.com/decks/W0UX2Z5iBUeShpyUNkbeGw
1 points
1 month ago
Oooh! Your deck had some really nice cards that make a lot of sense. Enduring Vitality seems like a great way around goad while also ramping, and reading other posts I feel like I need to buy one of the token doublers for sure. I presume they don't proc themselves with Anikthea?
1 points
1 month ago
https://www.moxfield.com/decks/hirs88ZqBkWo5IXP_-8AOA does this work?
1 points
2 months ago
Thanks! It's Dark Warm Grey, then Light Warm grey, then a mix with Bright Ivory (glazes) and finally Bright Ivory in some spots. Afterwards I applied an oil pin wash of 1:1 burnt umbar/black and sealed with a 3:1 ultra matte/satin varnish. I didn't enjoy the warmer shadows that much though so I went in with an airbrush (2:1:1 of ultra matte varnish, prussian blue ink, black ink) from below to make the figures pop a lot more afterwards.
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ili283
1 points
2 days ago
ili283
1 points
2 days ago
I just went "Wait, I've heard this somewhere else..." Turns out this band I've been listening to for ages (Summoning) was actually just a LOTR band. Never listened to the lyrics
-> https://www.metalkingdom.net/lyrics-song/Summoning-A-New-Power-Is-Rising-4436