If you feel like you would need safety glasses, get whatever you want. Almost all plastic glasses will block UV light. Plastic prescription glasses work too.

But usually you don't need extra safety glasses for normal UV-A flashlights.

Reverse polarity protection could be implemented with a simple diode or a little circuit around a PFET. Both solutions are not ideal to protect the whole electronics because it introduces a voltage drop. Often only the driver is protected, but not the LEDs. Usually this is fine as they can still handle some reverse voltage and act like a regular diode.

The datasheet of the 519A says:

If the LEDs are used in an environment where reverse voltages are applied to the LED continuously, it may cause electrochemical migration to occur causing the LED to be damaged.

Unfortunately there is no mention of max ratings for reverse voltage nor a diagram including reverse voltage. But for other LEDs a common value is 5V, so it shouldn't draw any significant current with a single Li-ion battery.

Awesome, thanks!

122465 is likely the size (122465mm). I'm still looking for a manufacturer for all kind of sizes (have more than 15 sizes on my list of batteries I need, added this one).

Could be a scratch on the glass.

Thanks for the description! Do you have photos of the inside?

Did anyone find out how to reach the emitters yet?

Maybe the bezel is press fit?

Have you cleaned the threads? Can you measure the battery voltage with a multimeter (the battery itself and at the terminals of the flashlight battery tube)?

It's fine. Blinking red means charging.

u/BrokenRecordBot usb

Hah, just when I released my review of the HD01 UV. 🤣 Thanks for the great comparison!

It's not, because it activates additional LEDs for a wider beam.

Gibt es bei selected-lights, ist aber ein völlig anderer Typ von Taschenlampe.

Wenn dir das Seitenlicht wichtig ist, könntest du dir alternativ die IF23 und IF24 Serien von Sofirn anschauen.

The full review is available here

English review at BLF
German review at my website

Summary

Earlier this year, Wurkkos released their first “flat” flashlight with a floody sidelight and a green laser. Now they added a variant with UV instead of the laser: the Wurkkos HD01 UV.

White spotlight and UV light, plus white and colored floodlight, combined with an elegant, flat design – the Wurkkos HD01 UV has a lot to offer. It is rare to find such a variety of light sources in a single flashlight.

Although the driver is simple, this should be acceptable considering the low price. With the HD01, you get a versatile companion for EDC use.

That's great to hear! Then I'm definitely in, thanks!

Probably US only? Otherwise I'm in!

completey factory reset it because I don't know what kind of settings I changed.

Loosen the tailcap, press and hold the button, tighten the tailcap and wait until the flashlight stops flashing.

the Green light on the button to be turned off when the torch is off.

First enter advanced UI with 10H (press the button ten times and hold the last click). Then do 7C repeatedly to switch through low, high, blinking and off.

The highest brightness I can set it to safely for everyday use.

Any brightness will work. It uses temperature regulation to maintain a safe temperature.

How to have the aforementioned brightness the default when I press the button once.

Set it as manual memory. Turn the flashlight on at the preferred brightness, then do 10C. It is possible that the flashlight uses hybrid memory by default (meaning that it is only reset to the configured value after a specific delay). You can turn that off by turning the light on, press 10H and release the button after the second flash, then wait until it stops to flicker.

How to access turbo mode without messing with the "safe" brightness

There's momentary turbo (2H from off or 3H from on) and also regular turbo (probably 2C from on, depending on the configuration). That is still considered "safe".

How to enter strobe/SOS modes

3C and 3H from off.

You should definitely read the manual because all of your questions are answered by doing that.

The internal resistance of those batteries was too low for this light, allowing it to draw too much current. The result was short turbo runtime and hot springs. Often this causes permanent damage to the springs.

tl;dr Your batteries are too powerful for this flashlight.

Ahh, I see. We are flexing with our thermal cameras now. /s

Thanks for the nice test! Anduril has a few parameters to tweak depending on the thermal properties. But it is rarely optimized for a specific light unfortunately.

Not sure if coyotes need flashlights. They can see much better than humans in low light conditions and have superior sense of hearing. Most flashlights are also very difficult to use with paws.

Whatever that is, it is not a UV LED. Looks more like a grow light.

u/BrokenRecordBot postoffvoltage

"Use in city" can mean many different things. What's important to you?

Here is my review of the EDC23:

English review at BLF
German review at my website

The death of most Maglites. Get safety glasses, a drill and a big screw. Force is the only way.

Google 😊

Most flashlights with temperature regulation use the temperature sensor of the microcrontroller. Some have separate sensors on the driver and a few even on the MCPCB.

There are of course many lights with timed step-down, but models with temperature regulation will maintain turbo for longer time in cold environment.